Thursday, October 31, 2024

Paddy’s Markets to be transformed into food hub

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A landmark court ruling will force bric-a-brac traders to make way for an influx of new food operators set to open in the historic Haymarket precinct.

Sydney’s historic Paddy’s Markets will open a mega-food precinct similar to those found in markets overseas and interstate after clearing the final hurdle with a win in the NSW Supreme Court.

The inclusion of 47 outlets offering more fresh produce, speciality products and eat-in venues – drawing comparisons with Grand Central Market in Los Angeles – led to a bitter court battle between Sydney Markets Limited and “standholders”, who have been forced to relocate internally to make way for the sprawling food project.

In a statement supplied to the Herald, Sydney Markets Limited (SML) noted the Supreme Court ruled in its favour “on all three counts” and confirmed SML’s “right to proceed with the planned development of an authentic market offering”. Stallholders told this masthead that they would relocate within the building in a fortnight, and building work on the new food project would start immediately.

The historic Haymarket market dates back to the 1800s, with its food lineage diluted by the relocation of wholesale fruit and vegetable operations to Flemington in 1975. Once the epicentre of Sydney fresh produce, it has experienced a steady increase in bric-a-brac and speciality traders, although some food operators remain.

The incoming multimillion-dollar food precinct, backed by Doltone Hospitality Group, will bring Paddy’s more in-line with venues such as Adelaide Central Market and Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne, as well as markets in Europe and the US. While Doltone has been tight-lipped about its exact plans, the 47 outlets will include a butcher, more fresh produce, a cheese lab, and affordable eat-in speciality outlets and bars.

Souvenir trader Suat Kopuz isn’t happy about being relocated to a site “opposite the toilets” to make way for the food development. “If Sydney Markets think it’s going to work, why can’t they put it at the back?” he asks.

Bradley Latham, chief executive of Sydney Markets Limited, acknowledges the concerns of the affected stallholders, saying the organisation is “committed to supporting them through this transition”.

“We believe the new market will be an asset not only to Paddy’s but to the entire city of Sydney,” Latham says.

But Kopuz argues: “There’s so much food already in Chinatown, people aren’t going to come [from the suburbs] to buy my souvenirs because there’s tacos or hamburgers, they can get them where they live.”

The 40-year veteran at the markets says Paddy’s already has a butcher and some fresh produce. However, the incoming development may also be the missing piece to complete Sydney’s food puzzle compared to other metropolises. Sydneysiders can decide, when it opens in January 2025.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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