It prevents designers from doing lower-fi shows in spaces of their choosing, McCann says. A show can set a designer back upwards of $50,000; brands might rely on sponsors — but dollars are spread thin. Plus, showing under IMG might leave brands with less flexibility in bringing their own sponsors on board, she flags, should they conflict with the official event sponsor.
Even if fees are waived, the level of production required to stage a show (hair and makeup, show callers, models) adds cost. “All shows are expensive, full stop, but there are alternatives to runway shows,” McCann says. “If you still wanted to participate in AFW, but you wanted to show at mum and dad’s garage, you would be able to do that and still be on a schedule and gain recognition and coverage.” IMG says designers can show wherever they feel is best.
When designer Jordan Gogos first showed in 2022, for example, he still needed a hefty sum. “They were like, ‘Do you have $30,000? Can you put on a runway?’” he says. “I had absolutely nothing.” The crunch was worth it, Gogos says, for the provenance that association with AFW grants his pieces. In the end, the Powerhouse Museum (where his studio is) and Glenfiddich Whiskey (whom he’s continued to partner with), sponsored the show, alongside smaller sponsors.
Because of the high costs, some designers opt for different formats outside fashion week. Nagnata, for instance, held its pre-AFW show at China Heights Gallery. May likes to take her presentations to art spaces, which is not always possible on-schedule. And she wants more than a quick show slot. In the past, she’s had performance art and panel discussions. This year, she hosted a live drawing exercise, where attendees drew models in the clothes — and according to May, she spent a lot less than she would have on an AFW show.
Part of the cost problem is ownership. Some on the ground say the Australian Fashion Council (similar in nature to the CFDA in New York), should work with IMG to figure out a way for younger designers to show that’s less cost intensive. The Australian Fashion Council’s (AFC) involvement has always been with a “light touch”, CEO Jaana Quaintance-James says, noting that AFW must continue to evolve to meet industry needs.