Saturday, November 9, 2024

Six top trends from Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS25

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week spring/summer 25 was a showcase of creativity and milestone moments. The week opened with a spectacular Louis Vuitton menswear show from creative director Pharrell Williams, held on a Damier-checked fake lawn at the Unesco building in the French capital. Williams tapped into the sporting zeitgeist as Paris prepares to host this year’s Olympic and Paralympic games, and with the Euros in play in Berlin, presented looks influenced by football kits.

Dries Van Noten presented his final show on Saturday 22 June, after the creative director announced in March that he would be stepping back from the label he founded in 1986. His last show was full of a mix of clashing textures, including sleek snakeskin-printed leather, sheer recycled polyester and light structured tailoring.

London-based design house Wales Bonner revealed a new collaboration with Adidas Originals, showcasing a new black and silver-sequined Adidas Samba, while also paying tribute to the archive of Trinidadian artist and textile designer Althea McNish in the collection.

Fellow London-based designer Bianca Saunders debuted her first-ever unisex collection titled “The Hotel”, while Rick Owens returned to the grand Palais de Tokyo with a presentation inspired by pre-censorship era Hollywood epics, mixing “art deco, lurid sin and redeeming morality”.

Tokyo based label Doublet closed Paris Fashion Week with a tribute to Japanese fan culture, inspired by the concept of “oshi” – the practice of idolising a person or fictional character.

See the leading trends from Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS25 below.

Camo cool

Camouflage prints were spotted on the Paris catwalks this season, offering wearable and versatile key wardrobe pieces with a street style flair. Ziggy Chen introduced a soft camo pattern in a tapered trench, perfect for everyday smart-casual attire. Sankuanz showcased a grey-tone two-piece ensemble with an oversized jacket, ideal for a laid-back yet on-trend look. Undercover presented a chic linen jacket with subtle camo accents that will stand the test of time, while Bluemarble paired the print with vibrant lime accents for a stand-out piece that makes a statement. White Mountaineering’s “Unplugged” collection featured the classic print, adding a cool and outdoorsy feel to its outerwear selection.

Say it with flowers

Floral prints flourished, making a significant impact at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, as designers brought fresh interpretations to the forefront. Wales Bonner’s “Midnight Palms” collection featured tropical prints named Osiris, Akarana and Trinidad featuring bold and tropical prints covering matching two-piece sets and shirts peaking out from under blazers and eye-catching accessories

Dior Homme creative director Kim Jones drew inspiration from South African artist Hylton Nel, offering pottery and ceramic style floral designs across stylish separates that combined traditional aesthetics with artistic flair. Kenzo showcased playful prints mixed with cartoonish floral artwork, delivering eye-catching street-smart pieces paired with matching caps and understated cargo trousers. Hermès provided refined, everyday wardrobe staples with intricate and delicate floral motifs, perfect for transitioning from day to evening wear.

Fair and square

Checks dominated the Paris catwalks this season. At Louis Vuitton, textured checks featured in a chic two-piece set comprising a cropped tailored jacket and knee-length shorts. Issey Miyake’s deconstructed, effortlessly stylish pieces with mismatched check prints created a perfect balance of relaxed yet fashion-forward looks.

Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Spanish luxury label Loewe, played with various check patterns, introducing caped silhouette shirts in a prim gingham pattern. Ami Paris showed a dapper rendition of checks, featuring an edgier take on the traditional trench coat with rolled-up sleeves, a thick belt and a high collar.

Heavy on metal

Metallics shone brightly during Paris Fashion Week SS25, injecting a futuristic feel across several collections. Dries Van Noten led the charge with sleek metallic suits and a stand-out purple coat that combined traditional tailoring with modern materials snakeskin-printed leather, sheer recycled polyester and metallic crinkled polyamide and light structured tailoring. Bianca Saunders brought vibrant energy with high-shine sequins used across sleek sweater tops, cropped trousers, and sequinned loose-fit tracksuit bottoms.

Rick Owens’ “White Satin Army of Love” presented 200 models wearing 10 distinct looks, including distressed metallic jackets paired with tight-fitting hoods for a dramatic show. Maison Mihara Yasuhiro paid homage to the 1990s with a stand-out loose-fit metallic bomber jacket – a perfect modern reinterpretation of retro-futurism.

Doubling down on denim

Paris Fashion Week SS25 celebrated the enduring appeal of double denim, reimagined through innovative and diverse interpretations across various collections. Juun.J reimagined workwear through a couture lens, emphasising proportions and form – pairing strong shoulders with stylish oversized designs and pulled-in waists, complete with leather details on collars and pockets.

3.Paradis showcased vintage-inspires ensembles with faded-wash denim, including longer hip-skimming jackets and bootcut jeans, while artfully layered low-slung jeans with several stacked belts stole the show. Sacai paid homage to 1950s film star James Dean’s style through a collaboration with Levi’s, seamlessly blending Sacai’s signature playful style with the denim designs. Stand-out pieces included well-crafted jackets and wide-leg jeans with turned-up hems, evoking a strong, retro silhouette reminiscent of 1950s Americana. Meanwhile, Doublet showed all-denim ensembles with leather accents that gave a clean grunge-inspired vibe, effortlessly blending style and attitude.

Top-to-tonal

The Paris catwalks embraced top-to-toe colour, from vibrant, all-over shades that made striking statements to calming, relaxed colourways, highlighting the power of cohesive palettes in creating visually impactful outfits. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and Maison Mihara Yasuhiro took a bold approach with highlighter-bright ensembles. While Issey Miyake offered pastel tones in a soft violet waistcoat suit set, blending elegance with contemporary style. Bianca Saunders showcased crochet designs offering a standout jumpsuit in a vibrant primary blue, ideal for a beachy holiday look.

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