Australian Fashion Leaders on the Future of the Industry

We’re at a critical point in Australian fashion. where the line between what sells and what pushes creative boundaries doesn’t always align. Sustainability is in, fast fashion is out. But costs are up, and the pressure is on.

At the recent Australian Fashion Week at Sydney’s Carriageworks, we asked 40 of the most fashion-forward movers, shakers and content creators in the front row: what are you wearing? And what do you think about the state of the local industry?

I am a fashion writer and content creator.

I’m wearing a mix of things: a vintage DKNY jacket, a dress I’m loaning from Em On Holiday, tights that I bought from Ombre online, these second-hand shoes I bought from my close friend five years ago, and this bag I made at a workshop with Hellosisi, an incredible Melbourne designer.

I think we’re at an interesting … phase in fashion where we’ve seen really big contemporary names “make it” in last 20 years, and now there’s a new guard coming out. I particularly love looking at our student designers for what’s to come. But I do think we’re in a difficult stage with the onslaught of ultra-fast fashion. It has been put on a pedestal as something that’s cool. Especially by influencers who have uplifted its status from just a cheap option to something that’s valued, which makes me sad.

I am a musician.

I’m wearing all Acne Studios. I’ve been working with a stylist for three years now. He’s always pushing me to try more stuff, but I’ve been reluctant to elevate. I was very basic before but as the years have progressed, I’ve become more open-minded. The more I get into the public eye, the more I want to be known as a fashionable dude.

I think there’s some really dope street fashion coming up in Australia. I work with a brand called South St and they’re fucking awesome. I’m not a big trend follower because I don’t want to be the guy who just follows trends. I’m just doing what’s me.

I am an author, journalist, and former editor of Vogue Australia.

I’m wearing a navy short-sleeve shirt from Mastani, Jac & Jack pants, Martin Grant jacket, my vintage Chanel bag and Marni sandals.

I think it’s a “new-gen” world. I’ve been doing this for decades, and everything used to be so plugged into seasons, whereas now we’re in the digital world, and we’re all part of a bigger cosmos, and a global discussion. It’s the next generation who are highly interested in fashion and self-expression, highly aware of sustainability, highly aware of reusing vintage, all that sort of stuff. We had a different take on it back then, decades ago, when it was all the “wars” of what was “in” and what was “out”. And I know that’s not a thing anymore.

I am a producer at Vogue and GQ.

I’m wearing a JW Anderson shirt – he’s in the spotlight now, he styled the Challengers movie – his stuff is super cool. Comme des Garcons shorts. Both borrowed from lovely friends of mine. Also loafers and socks, which is very comfy.

I think Australian fashion is so fresh and young. We get a lot of really cool, innovative stuff coming from people straight out of high school and uni who have loved fashion since they were young and that brings such a fresh new energy. Labels like Speed, Injury, they’re cutting edge, innovative and grungy. They’re not really held back by commercial means and get to make stuff that’s super out-there.

I am a high-school student.

I’m wearing a vintage Levi’s jacket, and the pants are from Cue.

I think trends are very different now because of social media. We don’t follow just one trend when it comes to fashion, we have lots of little micro pocket trends because everyone is on social media and everyone’s feed is different. So there’s a lot more space to play with individual style and develop niche aesthetics for what you wear. Like I love taking, I don’t know, a men’s suit jacket and pairing it with a big, long skirt so you don’t really know what you’re looking at.

I am in fashion production – the boring stuff, making sure everything gets delivered on time.

I’m wearing old Mosman shirt dress which has kind of been draped a little bit, Simone Rocha Crocs then Alix Higgins top.

I think the Australian fashion scene is very commercial. A lot of the mid-range brands, which is fine. But I feel like you need more designers like Alix Higgins coming through just to remind people of the possibility of wonder that is still there. Commercial stuff still sells and it’s good, but you need that bit of excitement.

I am a model.

I’m wearing my roommate’s partner actually made these custom pants. The T-shirt is also my roommate’s. We’re the same size and he’s been like my brother since I was 10. And then just some brown cowboy boots from Virginia. My friend lives there and brought them back as a gift. I started with the boots and worked the outfit out around them.

I think being a model, I’m around fashion a lot, but I often keep it plain, all-black kind of thing. One of the Australian brands I like is Wah-Wah, I bought my first piece from them the other day and everything from the fit to the colour is awesome. I can’t recommend it enough.

I am a tailoring specialist.

I’m wearing a jacket thrifted from a vintage store in Sydney, Camilla and Marc pants, and thrifted boots. All of my jewellery is thrifted, and I’m wearing these custom grills from a friend called Clover in New York.

I think you shouldn’t ever get caught up in what is trending. Just see what suits you. And that’s when you look the best and you feel the most confident.

I am a musical director and DJ.

I’m wearing stuff that’s been made by friends – Akira Isogawa made the shirt. The pants are from my friend called Bryce – they don’t have a label or anything.

I think the world needs positivity right now. I’ve worked with international labels like Philip Treacy. Also Gary Bigeni, Nicol & Ford, Romance Was Born. All designers love music and there’s always a soundtrack to whatever’s being created. The designers are just artists working with fashion as a medium, creating portals into new worlds. People try to deride fashion as superficial, but like, what the fuck is wrong with superficial if it brings levity and light? My dog’s name is George Michael, he’s from an organisation that helps people on a journey with depression and anxiety. So I can take him to fashion shows, I can take him on the train. And he brings love wherever he goes.

I am a documentary fashion photographer.

I’m wearing an Amy Lawrence bonnet – she’s a Melbourne designer who showed off-program as part of Melbourne Fashion Festival this year. A cotton collar that I found in a shop in Italy, a 100 per cent wool Australian-made long-sleeve top from Viktoria & Woods, an old Prada handbag, a Scanlon taffeta skirt, and velvet shoes.

I think the future of Australian fashion is “less”. It sounds like a really scary idea, like every Australian label is going to go out of business, or there’s going to be no industry. But what I’m talking about is consuming less and being more aligned with your values. Know where your pieces are made, what they’re made of, and how long you’ve owned them. Have the confidence to wear things that are slightly damaged, because you had an amazing dinner the other week, and you now have a pasta stain on your sleeve. The more we value our clothes, and the more we value ourselves, the more they’ll show up in the world in an authentic way.

I am the creative director of fashion label Mastani.

I’m wearing my Mastani structured organza silk dress, with a cinched waist and strong shoulders.

I think the future of fashion is in slow production – the slow fashion pieces you can keep in your wardrobe for a really long time. That inspiration came from my [Indian] culture, where we get a lot of heirloom pieces when you get married. And it can be from your mother, grandmother, great grandmother. And it’s passed on from generation to generation, but you can only do it if it’s well made of natural fibres. That’s the future of fashion, so I can leave the planet beautiful for my kids, for everybody else’s kids and for the future generations.

I am the CEO of PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival.

I’m wearing MA Dainty silk pants and top … sort of pyjamas really? The shoes are Valentino, big chunky platforms and a little disco Balmain bag.

I think it’s really tough to be in fashion right now. But we’re starting to see smaller businesses that are happy to be small, embracing local manufacturing, being thoughtful about how they are sustainable and contributing to that circularity. I’m hoping we don’t have to embrace the faster fashion elements of the industry as much, and support local designers doing fabulous things with great fabrics. I can see there’s a relaxed view of how fashion is in Sydney, but in Melbourne it’s more creative and quirkier. So we’re building the industry from both cities a little bit.

I am a content creator and make-up artist.

I’m wearing head to toe Sheike, and a Polene bag – it’s my little French dumpling.

I think we’re in our own world, geographically and fashion-wise. The Aussie labels are killing it. I would like to see more modesty in fashion, which is perfect for a girl like me. And I want to see more diversity – chef’s kiss.

I am a model and actress and I have my own business called Flip Kip.

I’m wearing a Friends with Frank suit, I think? I don’t know all the labels. Sorry.

I think everyone’s finding their individual style. People just want to be comfortable and feel like themselves and celebrate their uniqueness. Anything goes now – it’s about what you feel good in. We’re attracted to what’s wearable and relaxed.

Aidan Goundar

I am an architect by trade.

I’m wearing a traditional Indian outfit. I wouldn’t be able to tell you the designers as it is sourced from my grandma. She really wanted me to wear this.

I think Aussie fashion has potential. There’s so much variety around. I grew up with Hindi as my first language so I’m trying to juggle my identity in Australia as someone who doesn’t necessarily look too Indian in what I wear. But representation is so exciting. I have countless Indian outfits for family events, but I’ll also go to uni wearing this.

I am a video and photo producer. I make travel content for brands, influencing, I produce music, I’m a DJ, honestly a jack of all trades.

I’m wearing a street-ish, flamboyant kind of look, I guess. A lot of it is vintage stuff I found in op shops. These jeans are the flagship, Claudette Field, my friend from the Gold Coast who is just starting out. A Nike padlock – I like details, you know, just little things that people will notice.

I think Australian fashion is on the up again. Last year felt a little stagnant. It feels like people are hyped on it again. I love Romance Was Born, and a new label called Injury looks edgy. When it comes to top-tier fashion you obviously think of Paris and Milan and the big top dogs, so it’s nice to see edgy designers being put forward to do something big locally.

I am a social and influencer specialist at online retailer the Iconic.

I’m wearing a quarter-zip jumper and overcoat from Aere. RM Williams belt, Uniqlo pants – the ones that popped off on TikTok a year ago – and an Aimé Leon Dore leather hat which cost too much. Also these Adidas Sambas.

I think I see myself mainly shopping online … more for convenience. I prefer basically having everything on my wish list and making more conscious decisions, whereas if I’m shopping in person that I feel like I make rash decisions, basically.

I am a vibes DJ.

I’m wearing a Kourh dress, Elka Collective coat, the glasses are Parabola Eyewear and my bag is Brie Leon. And the jewellery is my stepmother’s brand Djalis Creations.

I think we do fashion the best in the world. I’ve lived in London, New York and LA and I still think Australian designers have our own fresh take. Brands like St Agni, and Albus Lumen. The silhouetting is stunning. But I don’t like trends. I have my own style and I dress to bring out my own authenticity. I would describe my style as … moody. It goes up and down with my moods.

I am the owner and director of a fashion, PR and communications agency.

I’m wearing an Incu Collection suit – it’s a few years old but I needed some girl boss vibes today. My T-shirt is Em On Holiday. My shoes and sunglasses are Saint Laurent, and my bag is Dragon Diffusion.

I think a lot of the world is looking towards Australia for how we do resort wear, in particular. Our aesthetic is quite minimal, very easy to wear and great in a hotter climate. When it comes to dressing, I love the three-word method made famous by [stylist] Allison Bornstein, where you choose three words that encapsulate your style. Mine are classic, casual and effortless.

I am a leather designer and the owner of Leatheron.

I’m wearing one of my first non-leather designs. It’s full linen with drape pants – I want to showcase that I’m exploring different materials.

I think we need to highlight our differences in the Australian fashion game and create looks that are more “out there” – our core fashion industry is quite basic. We go to our comfort zone. I made my first piece when I was 12. Now every time I make a piece, I have to ask, can I sell this?

I am co-founder of the Wardrobe Edit, which is a service that helps people fall back in love with pieces in their wardrobe that they’re not wearing.

I’m wearing pretty much head-to-toe Scanlan Theodore with a Celine pouch, a stole and Le Specs sunnies.

I think it’s all about having the confidence to wear what you love and feel great. It’s amazing what the power of a good outfit can do for you. People tend to wear so little of their wardrobes, and they might have these incredible pieces but they think, “Oh, I can’t wear that now,” but if you were cool enough to buy it then you’re cool enough to keep wearing it. As much as I like the “capsule wardrobe” idea, that kind of uniform dressing is pretty done. We can do better than all looking the same. I like to lean into those “wow” pieces that show your personality and make you feel a million bucks.

I am a social producer at Refinery 29.

I’m wearing Ganni pink slingbacks because they are the It Shoe of the moment and my co-worker said they make me look like a punk ballerina. You’ll see one in every 15 girls wearing them in a different colour. I’m also wearing some random red tights, and an Em On Holiday set and bag from the newest collection. And earrings from Lovisa that I got for five bucks.

I think the future is, hopefully, increasingly diverse compared to previous generations. It’s a beautiful time and I see a lot of bows around, so that makes me happy. I love a bow. I love girly aesthetics. I feel like my outfit today is Clueless meets Blair Waldorf.

I am a singer/songwriter.

I’m wearing 95 per cent thrifted items, so a vintage Diesel jacket, a real thrifted fur (it’s sustainable and better than buying plastic), Sunday Stephens rings, cowboy boots, cowboy hat from Route 66.

I think it’s always about supporting small businesses. I rarely ever buy new things, and never fast fashion. I love older clothing, from the ’80s, ’70s or ’60s even.

I am a stylist and influencer.

I’m wearing a jacket from Boohooman, Asos pants, turtleneck and boots. My jewellery is from a friend’s brand, Benjamin Imani. And the glasses are Fendi. I’m an influencer so I get a lot of things sent to me for free or I get paid to wear them.

I think local fashion is getting better slowly. My personality is very colourful. I believe in something called “dopamine dressing”, which is wearing a lot of colours, and when you look good, you feel good. When people see me, they smile.

We are the founders of New Zealand brand Harris Tapper.

We’re wearing head to toe Harris Tapper.

I think Australian fashion is interesting – it’s quite a lot brighter and potentially a bit more fun than in New Zealand, where everyone loves black. My advice for people wanting to start their own fashion business? Get as much experience as you can. You can learn so much working for small businesses. Also get a good accountant.* – Lauren Tapper*

I think we’re at the mercy of consumers, and they will determine the future of the industry. I’m trying to balance commercial realities with brand integrity, which is one of the hardest things at the moment. Not compromising on design, but also being aware of a price point in this market specifically. It’s so much bigger here in Australia. – Sarah Harris Gould

I’m a stylist.

I’m wearing Romeo Gigli 1990s spider web dress, a deconstructed blazer from Commes de Garcon spring/summer 2007, both from Qurated, an online archival store. And boots from The Miss Right, a local Australian brand.

*I think *more edgy designers should come into the scene, but that’s not really the local market. My friends are the designers of [brands] Speed and Injury and I’d love to see more of that kind of … [thing] with designers in Australia. I go for a darker vibe when it comes to fashion. I love blacks, reds, greys, dark purple, sheer, lace. But still dress somewhat conservative?

I am the head of partnerships at the Fashion Institute, which is a fashion business school in Chippendale.

I’m wearing Margiela Tabis, an Acne Studios denim thrifted skirt I just sliced up, an old Target thrifted top, Balenciaga bag and Agnes jewellery.

I think the emerging talent to watch is the smaller designers. A lot of people are stepping away from bigger trends and focusing on individuality. And I’m seeing that more generally, not just at events like Fashion Week.

Monique Lane

I am a designer with my own label.

I’m wearing jeans from Nobody Denim and I’ve added this skirt over the top, which I designed and made. It’s meant to be like a memory kind of board. And then the jacket is Song for the Mute and the bag is Coach.

I think inclusive fashion should become more mainstream. I design adaptive, universal clothing with a disability focus. I think about how people with disabilities need different functioning clothing. I would love to see more people with disabilities on the runway, and models who have differences like that. And then the industry focusing on becoming a little bit more inclusive and universal, because I don’t think it’s too difficult to do and it’s very needed.

I am an influencer, but my nine to five job is in corporate tech.

I’m wearing a top from Le17septembre, an Asian-owned brand from a shop called Maillot in Haymarket. A Raga Malak skirt. The Ganni shoes (they no longer sell this colour). Kangol hat, and a handmade bag bought in Japan.

I think Australia is getting there in terms of experimenting with different trends, styles, inclusivity, diversity and sustainability. I love second-hand, pre-loved clothes. There’re a few markets in Sydney I go to. One called Second Life and another Fashion Thrift Society. It’s nice to lean into the cycle of clothes. I go to a vintage store. I see something that I love. I buy it. If I get sick of the item, I can sell it.

I am a freelance writer.

I’m wearing a Mastani piece that I purchased many years ago from an archival collection. The brand does small-run pieces and works with makers in India, and creates these absolutely gorgeous pieces – I mean, look at this texture. And this is the kind of thing I would never throw away. It’s not a trend piece, but it is a statement piece.

I think the future of fashion is that if we’re buying new, we find things that we can connect with emotionally, that fit us beautifully, and especially for women, that can change with our bodies. Tight stuff is just not realistic. You know, as we get older, our bodies change. So how can we create fashion that has a longer life form, [for a] changing body and for changing trends?

I am a content creator and model.

I’m wearing an Aje dress, and on top of that I wanted to do an Indo-Western look so I’ve just got a piece of material on to give that Indian feel.

I think the industry is at its best. As I get older I’m moving towards an elegant, classic sort of vibe that’s going to last me. I don’t want to look back at photos and think: ‘what was I wearing back then?’.

I am the fashion director at Grazia and Icon magazines.

I’m wearing Tommy Hilfiger. It’s a brand I’ve always loved because I love this oversized American logo and I’m really into sports style. A friend of mine made me this skirt – she’s a Korean designer. And just little loafers. And a Fendi bag. I like the mix.

I think we’re starting to understand sustainability more and ask the big questions. These new young designers who are not so serious – like Emma Mulholland, Viktoria & Woods – are creating brands you want to buy. But also, the generations are looking at recycling and vintage, which is something we haven’t talked about for years. And that’s really how we keep the longevity in the business.

I am the chief customer officer of PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival.

I’m wearing Alix Higgins, because we’re going to the show and he was also part of our national designer award program. I’m also wearing Karla Laidlaw, a great Melbourne designer, and my shoes are Essen. And an Acne Studios vest.

I think there’s a difference between where Australian fashion is headed and where I’d love to see things headed. The things that are really exciting me about the future are people who have a very strong point of view, with an aesthetic that is uniquely their own. I’m a maximalist when it comes to colour and print and things like that. I want to see things that are really quirky and cool. But I also think they’re the designers that are getting heaps of interest at the moment because it’s something that people can really latch on to, which is super exciting.

I am a producer, curator and occasional model.

I’m wearing Margiela Tabis. I’m having a double-denim moment. Nudie Jeans, thrifted blazer and this beautiful Romance Was Born brooch. Shirt by Alexander Wang, Bailey Nelson glasses. I have to be able to go from a corporate moment to a fun casual nightlife moment.

I think the future is “hope”. I think it’s a hope for a more sustainable world. A more just world. A queer-er world. I think a lot of the shows that I’ve seen at Australian Fashion Week have felt super refreshing and hopeful.

I am the executive fashion director at Russh magazine.

I’m wearing a Hodakova dress – she’s based in Paris, and she’s very sustainable. A vintage blazer, Allure bag, Balenciaga shoes and Loewe glasses.

I think Australian fashion is super playful and fun, but also impactful in that it’s sustainable and it’s indigenous, and very carefully considered. I just saw Bella Davies yesterday, she’s a recent grad. And I love Alix Higgins. I think he’s Australia’s next fashion darling.

I am a style expert. I give my opinions to TV networks and streaming platforms.

I’m wearing this ridiculously hot Aston Atoi suit. Plus an H&M top, Fendi bag, YSL shoes, and Celine sunglasses.

I think lots of people like to hang lots of crap on Australian fashion, but we do have a wealth of serious talent and innovation in our designs. The financial pool might be smaller because of the demographics and the population but let me tell you the talent is around. I just discovered the label Rome, which is a good one. My style tip will always be to buy well and buy less often.

I am a curl specialist working with wavy, curly and Afro textures of hair.

I’m wearing a cap from an ex-boyfriend, a necklace from a South African street market, a scarf I got in Vietnam. The suit is put together from some online purchases on the Iconic.

I think it’s beautiful seeing more diversity around because that means there’s also diversity of thought and diversity of style. I’m often backstage at fashion shows seeing the same thing but things are progressively changing. Around 65 per cent of the population has wavy, curly or Afro hair, but most of those people can’t control it, and they can’t do everyday life with their hair as it is naturally. So I have a salon and a product line teaching people they can love their hair as it is and not worry about their confidence being interrupted because of what’s on their head. This year I was named an AFW Changemaker and I’m excited to see what happens next year. Change never happens overnight, it’s incremental.

I am a stylist.

I’m wearing a shirt I got from Good Sammy in North Perth, a vintage jacket, tie and a cricket jumper. I often shop in the menswear department.

I think it’s great when people mix high and low end, contemporary and vintage. I think about how many wears I’ll get out of a piece, and how many outfits I can create. Even shopping at op shops there’s a thought that “more is better”, but an expensive wardrobe isn’t always a good wardrobe. I’ve seen a lot of people op-shopping, thrifting, second-hand hunting on my socials lately, which is great from a sustainability standpoint. I’m from Perth where the fashion scene is small, but we have some amazing local creators and designers, like Empire Rose, Natalie Rolt and Jonté Designs.

I am a model.

I’m wearing Haydenshapes, a thrifted long-sleeve turtleneck, thrifted skirt, pants and Nike P 6000.

I think the underground fashion scene is where a lot of the beautiful, unseen, untapped fashion is. That truly represents Australian fashion rather than brands that are at the forefront on the runways. My style recently has been a lot of black because black challenges the way that I style. I get my inspiration from everybody and anything. I look at everybody no matter the gender, size, height, weight … because somebody could put something on that I could never implement myself. I could look at a building and be like: I love that pattern.

Broadsheet‘s State of Style issue is proudly presented by Dove. Explore more of the issue here.