Nonchalance may be a French word but Brunello Cucinelli made it Italian for his spring collection, which was infused with ease, lightness and presented in a new delightful and delicate palette of colors that were mouthwatering — visually and figuratively, dubbed grapefruit, papaya and ginger, cherry blossom and sky blue, combined with neutrals or contrasting with bark-brown.
While the address of the presentation this season was new — the richly frescoed and gilded salons of the stately Neoclassic Palazzo Serbelloni and its courtyard, rather that Cucinelli’s Milan showroom — the collection was on-brand as ever.
Suits in silk or in precious blends of silk, linen and cashmere were shown with wider volumes, with a vague 1980s, “Miami Vice” or “American Gigolo” vibe. There were a few checkered motifs — a trend emerging in Milan — and tailoring fabrics were also used on outerwear, paired with high-performance membranes.
Camp shirts peeped out of linen suits, but the fabric of the latter was a little more structured and less prone to creases. The guayabera shirt was feather-light and jackets were shorter on the waist. A soft leather blazer with a shawl-like neckline and cut as a tuxedo jacket is sure to make an impression whatever the context.
T-shirts and polos were actually made with knits in a new fine cashmere and linen yarn and cardigans came in soft malfilé cotton while drawstring pants contributed to the relaxed fit. Ease never looked so chic.