Monday, September 16, 2024

Chefs heading to the mines leave empty plates at regional restaurants

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In short: 

According to Jobs and Skills Australia, there is a national shortage of chefs. 

Businesses in regional communities say they are losing chefs to higher-paid work in the mining industry. 

What’s next?

The number of apprentice chefs dropped by 33.8 per cent between 2022 and 2023.

Letisha Frenken has been running Two Professors, a popular cafe in central Queensland’s Rockhampton for eight years.

The town’s population is more than 80,000 and growing, but Ms Frenken has struggled to recruit and retain an integral part of her business — chefs.

Ms Frenken said her business struggled during the busy Christmas period when they lost two chefs and closing the kitchen would mean a 50 per cent reduction in revenue.

“Half the amount of business comes from the food and the other half comes from coffee,” she said.

Rockhampton cafe owner Letisha Frenken with staff member Emma Jackson.(ABC News: Megan Hughes)

Ms Frenken empathised with local businesses closing their kitchens.

“It is almost at the point where it breaks your heart and we have come close to that with the kitchen,” she said.

“The heartache that goes behind that and trying to keep the place open, I wouldn’t want any business to go through because it is a struggle.”

According to Jobs and Skills Australia’s Skills Priority List in 2023, there was a national shortage of chefs, and the job was included in the 20 most in-demand occupations across Australia.

A young woman sprinkles paprika on a serving of avocado on toast with a poached egg

Emma has picked up the tools of the chef trade while working in the cafe.(ABC News: Megan Hughes)

Emma Jackson works for Ms Frenken at Two Professors and is about to start an apprenticeship because of the business’s difficulty finding suitable chefs.

“The shortage is the reason why I put my hand up to go through with the chef’s apprenticeship because we cannot find them anywhere. We’ve outsourced from other cities and everything,” Ms Jackson said.

“We’re struggling to find someone who would do the hours, put in the work, and be passionate about it. So, I put my hand up.”

Losing chefs to the mines 

Rockhampton is a regional hub for numerous large mines — within driving distance of Blackwater, Moura, Emerald, and the Bowen Basin. 

man smiles at camera in front of opening to a kitchen

Jordan Baker-Moller owns a venue in Rockhampton.(ABC Capricornia: Scout Wallen)

Jordan Baker-Moller, the owner of the Goat Bar and Cafe in Rockhampton, said his business could not compete with mining wages.

According to Jobs and Skill Australia, the median weekly earnings for a chef is $1,330, or roughly $69,000 a year.

Job-search website Glassdoor said the average base rate for a fly-in, fly-out chef is between $78,000 and $94,000.

“It’s very difficult for us to compete with what a mining camp can offer a chef in terms of pay and also the type of work that they’re doing,” he said.

Mr Baker-Moller said the work was often less complicated, and there was less negative feedback from customers.

People smile in background with kitchen food heater and a dish in the foreground

Jordan staffs his kitchen with two to three chefs and a team of apprentices and cooks.(ABC Capricornia: Scout Wallen)

“It’s one of the only trades where it’s very normal and common for a customer to say, ‘No, I don’t like that, that’s wrong, I’m not going to pay for that,'” he said.

“You can’t do that with a plumber.

“The job is not easy, it’s very, very difficult.

“We have glassies, bartenders, baristas, waiters, bartenders, DJs, security guards, but chefs are the hardest department for us to staff.”

Ms Frenken agreed.

She said her business also lost staff to the mines because of the higher salaries on offer.

“I think a lot of chefs can go the mines and get triple the money they can get in town,” she said.

However, Ms Frenken said working in a cafe or restaurant offered a great lifestyle for chefs.

“The only difference in town is that you get a lifestyle, you’re home with your family and you can enjoy all your kids’ activities,” she said.

A deep frier is on in the foreground and a young woman is busy packing a takeaway order next to it

Ms Jackson says she hasn’t been attracted by a move to the mines.(ABC News: Megan Hughes)

Ms Jackson agreed, having turned her back on a boilermaker apprenticeship at the mines to work in hospitality.

“I definitely don’t want to go out in the mines,” she said.

“That was way worse work than what I’m doing now. You don’t have the satisfaction of pleasing your community and feeling like an active member of it.”

Lack of apprentices 

Mr Baker-Moller said he was seeing fewer young people wanting to get into the profession for a range of reasons, including negative customer interactions and long, arduous hours.

According to the National Centre for Vocational Education Research, between 2022 and 2023 the number of people who began a chef apprenticeship decreased by 33.8 per cent.

In 2022, 355 Australians began a chef apprenticeship, a figure that dropped to 235 people in 2023.

Mr Baker-Moller said there was limited opportunity in the regions for chefs who wanted to experiment and take their trade more seriously.

“The chefs who are in the regions who are really passionate about their craft and are really creative,” he said.

“But often they will get lured away [to] metro areas where there’s a bit more of a demand for that kind of cooking.”

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