June marks the celebration of Pride. It’s a time when a myriad of industries, from fashion and beauty to literature and sports, recognise and commemorate the ongoing pursuit of equal rights for the lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and queer community, as well as celebrate the impact they’ve had on society. Yet outside of these four weeks, several designers believe that support for LGBTQ+ designers remains minimal.
Last weekend, New York-based designer and 2024 LVMH Prize semi-finalist Jacques Agbobly partnered with The Standard hotel in New York to host a celebratory dinner for Pride month. ‘This was an opportunity for us to bring the community together at a location that has always been a safe space for us,’ he says, noting that the hotel host club events for the queer community, which Agbobly frequents. ‘As my brand begins to evolve, it was really important for me to also create safe spaces for people to come together. This dinner was really an opportunity to do that.’
There’s always more work to be done, he says. ‘I don’t think we should become complacent when it comes to diversity or representation – we should actively go against the status-quo,’ Agbobly adds. ‘We’ve definitely seen more support and more opportunities, not only for Black or queer folks in general, but I think the industry is inching towards more a more inclusive space and I’m really grateful to be a part of that conversation.’
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Diversity and inclusion efforts are increasingly becoming a priority for brands and consumers alike, as the industry strives to be more inclusive. Not only is the shift necessary on an industry level, but there’s also demand from consumers. Studies have shown that Gen Z shoppers are more likely to buy from a brand if their marketing challenges gender stereotypes. However, every year Pride Month comes back around, and designers once again feel like the industry is not doing enough to recognise or include them in the wider fashion conversation beyond June.
From designing collections to creating marketing campaigns, identity plays an important role in shaping their brands. For Charles Jeffrey, founder of the British label Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, this rings true. ‘My identity is a huge part of my work — it’s pretty much at the core of everything I do and definitely shapes how we handle our designs and marketing,’ he says. ‘It’s like, my personal experiences and who I am naturally bleed into our creative process, and that’s what makes our brand stand out.’
Not only does this help Charles Jeffrey Loverboy stand out from its peers, but it’s also a way to authentically speak to fans of the brand. ‘We really try to reflect this authenticity in how we engage with people too, celebrating all kinds of identities and making sure everyone feels included,’ he explains. ‘It’s not just about being seen; it’s about being heard and understood, which I think really resonates with our audience.’
London-based designer Chet Lo shares the same sentiment. It’s not easy to separate the designer from their identity, consciously or not, identity will always impact one’s actions. ‘My identity impacts everything! From my heritage to my sexuality, I think growing up with the hardships of feeling “othered” is what prompted my ability to think outside the box and really try to push the boundaries of what is current and what people wear,’ he says, ‘It’s definitely central to my marketing, from my SS24 campaign which focused on queer art from ancient Asian cultures, to my AW23 collection which focused on the emotions brought about from my feelings of being an outsider.’
His identity has also fed into his fashion collaborations. Following Lo’s SS24 collection, which explored queerness and the ideas of sexuality in Asian culture, Lo teamed up with the dating app Tinder to create a capsule collection that looks at dating through the lens of fashion.
The collection was also a way to give back to the community. A fifth (20%) of sales were donated to Akt, a charity that supports LGBTQ+ young people in the UK at risk of, or experiencing, homelessness or a hostile living environment. ‘I think support is still needed for the young people who are still facing the issues of family and coming out,’ Lo says. ‘There is definitely room for improvement in the actual lives of people.’
Industry-wide support for designers, Jeffrey believes, is lacking. ‘Honestly, the industry could do a lot more to support LGBTQ+ designers all year round, not just during Pride,’ says the designer. ‘We could start by keeping the spotlight on LGBTQ+ designers beyond June. Why not feature their work, create collaborations, and promote them throughout the year? It keeps the support consistent and visible.’
Nicole Zizi, founder of the eponymous New-York based streetwear label, shares the same frustrations. ‘It’d be nice to be recognised outside of these titles [Pride or Black History Month],’ she says, highlighting that the industry often forgets about designers in the LGBTQ+ community outside of these calendar events. ‘I’m always super honoured to be featured during Pride, but it’s also thinking about what else designers need,’ Zizi adds. That includes giving designer, particularly young and emerging designers, a platform to showcase and spotlight their brand on a regular day. Outside of Pride Month, these designers are still innovating, storytelling and uplifting their community. ‘It’d be cool to talk about that a bit more. My brand is really a reflection of the things that I value and the things that I want to see: a diverse community that is environmentally conscious,’ she says.
Beyond recognition, designers say more needs to be done to support LGBTQ+ designers in this industry – both internally and externally. For Jeffrey, mentorship is high up on the list. ‘Creating programs specifically for LGBTQ+ designers would help the new generation get the guidance and networking they need,’ he explains. ‘It’s all about learning from those who’ve been there and opening up opportunities.’ It’s also about giving these designers platform, he adds, noting that it’s important to see LGBTQ+ designers leading discussions, speaking at panels and being involved in major industry events. ‘It’s important they’re seen as leaders and influencers.’
An internal reform needs to happen and companies need to rethink their policies to ensure that they’re truly inclusive, Jeffrey’s argues. ‘This means everything from non-discrimination policies to genuine support for trans employees. Also, hiring more LGBTQ+ talent across all levels can bring diverse perspectives that might be missing. It’s about enriching the industry with different viewpoints, which can lead to more creativity and innovation,’ he says.
Ensuring that these brands can remain in the fashion ecosystem is vital to sustainably creating a diverse fashion landscape. And a key component of that is financial stability. ‘Financial support through grants and funding targeted at LGBTQ+ designers can help relieve some of the pressures that hold back creativity,’ says Jeffery. ‘This kind of support can make a big difference in allowing designers to focus on what they do best without worrying so much about the financial side of things.’
‘The real inclusivity happens behind the scenes, and it matters a lot,’ Jeffrey adds.
Designers are keen to inspire and better document their support of the LGBTQ+ community in a bid to inspire the next generation of LGBTQ+ designers. ‘We [the Agbobly brand] will continue to create spaces and platform diverse voices so that the younger generation have something to look back to when they’re making their mark,’ Agbobly says.
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