From New Orleans to Nashville – A Tale of Three Weeks in the USA
Recently we made a trip over to New Orleans (NO or N’Awlins) for the New Orleans Jazz Fest 2024. There was a total of twenty-two people in our group. This is an annual pilgrimage for some, but only my second Jazz Fest.
Brian Wise (editor of Rhythms magazine, and also 3RRR radio announcer, to name some of his hats) did the leg work for us to attend. Unfortunately, Brian was not able to attend this year.
We flew from Melbourne to Sydney, and exited Australia. Onto Fort Worth – Dallas, a nightmare of an airport, where we cleared customs and claimed our bags. Our next leg was to New Orleans. Arriving in New Orleans, at 9:30pm and no sign of our luggage. Marlene (my better half) flexed her verbal muscle and got an American Airline official to give us a guarantee that our baggage would be delivered to our hotel when it turned up.
We had one day before the festival to recover from jetlag and explore the French Quarter and the waterfront and the big ole Mississippi. The weather was quite mild for NO, as it can get quite humid and oppressive. And when we got back to the hotel, our baggage had arrived!
On the edge of the Mississippi River, New Orleans
Jackson Square
Finding places to eat, where you get good quality food can be a challenge, as everything seems to be deep fried with loads of French fries.
Decatur Street turned out to be probably the place to get quality food, although we did find a very good Asian restaurant in Conti Street towards the end of our stay in NO.
Jazz Fest
For the uninitiated, the Jazz Fest runs for eight days (four days on, three-day break, then another four days) between the hours of 11:00 am to 7:00pm. To get to the festival venue from our digs you could either walk it (40-minute brisk walk) or get the very crowded No. 91 bus (Covid compromise). Add that to your Lonely Planet Notes.
Stan and Marlene at JazzFest
The performers were 90% local artists, with the remaining acts out of towners like The Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, The Rolling Stones, The Killers, Neil Young etc.
For me, it is always an education in performers that I had not been familiar with, or knew little about. I enjoyed local Ivan Neville’s cutdown version of Dumpstaphunk, who played in Lafayette Square during one of the evenings of the three-day break.
Although this was my second Jazz Fest, I kept learning about where and what you could see. The interview area at the festival, was new to me, and I enjoyed listening to the background stories of the artists in this venue.
The Fais Do Do Stage was one of my favourite stages where you could get up close and personal, and groove with a hip security guard.
Groovy, hip security guard
Lots of exhilarating Zydeco music washed over us from this stage. Rosie Ledet and her band were just so vibrant, so effervescent, despite it being the start of the day.
Rosie Ledet
Rosie Ledet and her band
On this same stage, Nitty Gritty Dirt Band were fantastic with Jeff Hanna out front and getting us into many great songs, including ‘Mr Bojangles’. So sweet!
Jeff Hanna, leader of Nitty Gritty Dirt Band
Nitty Gritty Dirt Band
Scheduled for the last act, on the fifth day were The Rolling Stones. To get a good position you had to be there early. I think we positioned ourselves about six hours before they came on. Great acts preceded the Stones. Samantha Fish had a commanding presence, with her musical ability and dressed in a sexy black studded jump suit. Her band was great, and the drummer was a Keith Urban doppelganger.
Samantha Fish
Dumpstaphunk were next and were great with brass, guitars, keyboards, drums, and led by Ivan Neville. Having seen the cut down version of the group the night before, I knew that they were very appropriate to being the prelude to the big act.
Ivan Neville from Dumpstathunk
Much has already been written about the Stones’ performance. Amazing to watch Mick Jagger strut his stuff with probably more energy than when he first started out. He got a little political, getting stuck into the Louisiana Governor. Keith is getting old, he looked tired (he’s my favourite Stone) and Ronnie Wood ably took up lead guitar when Keith needed to ease back. (Maybe we should ease back on the Keith Richard memes. I think he is struggling). Great to see Irma Thomas come out and do a duet with the Stones. And the group added a bit of Zydeco by bringing out local Dwayne Dopsie.
Ronnie Wood and Keith Richards
Mick Jagger
My favourite song is undeniably ‘Gimme Shelter’, backed up by the haunting and strong voice of Chanel Haynes. Excellent Stuff! My first time I had ever seen these legends live. I doubt I’ll ever get that chance again.
The Stones with Chanel Haynes
Without doing disservice to many of the other acts, it’s hard to compose a best of. It comes down to your musical tastes, and a lot of juggling and jostling to get to acts that may overlap with one another.
A sample of the crowd – up to 75,000 people attended daily.
I attended quite a few acts in the Blues Tent. I know my hearing is deteriorating, but I found the acoustics of this venue very poor. (In 2019 this was my default venue; with great artists and great sound) I think this is unfortunate for both the artists and the viewing public.
I also found that there was a fair bit of noise interference coming from the Congo Stage, when watching acts at the Fais Do Do.
Over fifty years of Jazz Fest, you would think the sound engineers would have it down pat!
From the Teskey Brothers at the Saenger Theatre.
While we were cruising around the city, we noticed that the Teskey brothers were playing at the Saenger Theatre. We immediately got tickets. But it got better. Marlene was having a coffee in a café not far from our hotel. The short story is that some of the band members were also having a coffee, and ended up having a good chat with Marlene. The upshot of this encounter, was a backstage pass to meet all the members of the group.
So after a fabulous concert, where the locals really took to our Oz band, we went backstage and had a great talk to all the members of the band and had our photos taken with them. Josh – what a voice. Sam – what a guitarist. What a great night!
The Teskey Brothers
Stan and Marlene backstage with some of the band
From Swamps to Plantations.
On the off-days we took the opportunity to take a riverboat down the Mississippi, to the Battle of New Orleans, where there is a memorial to the battle. We were standing on ground where over 200 years ago, the British once again tried to lay claim to part of the United States. Although this was not the War of Independence, it was still very significant in terms of the young United States severing all ties with the British.
The second day was a swamp tour down the bayous of the Mississippi. This certainly was a highlight for Marlene, as she got to see raccoons up close and personal. She was smitten! Other highlights were Elvis the Alligator, snakes that can defecate over you if you are not careful, pine trees that only grow in swamp areas and have strange root systems, Spanish moss and much more.
Raccoon
Elvis the alligator
The third day was a tour of two plantations, now basically museums telling us of the growth of the sugar cane industry, that would not have been possible if it had not been for the slave trade. The first plantation, Laura Plantation, took a more realistic and inward look at its history, and our guide was moved and apologetic for what had happened to many African Americans. The second plantation, Oak Alley, was all about the fabulous mansion, and made little reference as to how the mansion and plantation developed. It was up to our own exploration to seek out the slave huts and read for ourselves, the harrowing tales these people endured.
Laura Plantation
Oak Alley Plantation
Last Days in New Orleans
After Jazz Fest had finished, we had a couple of days to catch our breath. What better way than to take a trolley ride (No. 48) out to the beautiful City Park. Looking forward a journey by trolley we waited patiently on Canal Street for the No. 48. Nothing doing. A lovely conductor assured us we would get out to City Park via a trolley. Electrical breakdowns hampered our journey. After about 1 ½ hours we arrived at City Parks. Normally a 20-minute journey.
Trolley cars
As we had chosen the afternoon, we had to cut our visit short. The sculpture park at City Park is amazing, but we only saw about half the sculptures. Our romance with the trolleys was over. We caught the No.91 bus back to our hotel, and we were home in twenty minutes.
Next day, we decided to go back to City Park and complete our walk around the sculpture park. We even had enough time to go into the Art Museum located there and I’m glad we did.
City Park was once a plantation, but was donated to the city by some benefactor many years ago. It is well worth the visit, if you are in New Orleans.
Onward to Nashville
We had decided to extend our visit in the USA, by visiting Nashville. Our flight to Nashville was via Houston (for some reason I could not get a direct flight).
We arrived at Houston and boarded our connecting flight to Nashville. Due to extreme weather, we sat on the runway for about two hours while the weather ‘cleared’. After waiting patiently on the aeroplane, they decided to let us disembark for a while. No sooner had we got off and had a short walk around, we were told to board our plane.
We were on our way. The flight started calmly, but half an hour into the flight things got a bit rough. There was lightning all around us outside. The plane was being buffeted for the rest of the journey, sometimes quite wildly. The lady behind me let out a bloodcurdling scream when the plane jolted very violently. That did not excite me one bit. Finally, the pilot announced we would be landing in a few minutes. That seemed an eternity given our roller-coaster ride. Some twenty minutes later we touched down. It’s the first flight I have ever been on where once we landed the passengers clapped and cheered. Marlene got the opportunity to thank the pilot.
A 1 ½ hour trip had turned into nearly five hours, but we were safe. Wear your seatbelt at all times when seated. You never know, as has been the recent experience of passengers on the Singapore Airlines flight
Nashville Skyline.
We arrived at our city hotel after midnight, and were booked in for 6 nights. Lots to see and do in Music City.
The original Grand Ole Opry (Ryman Auditorium) and new Grand Ole Opry
The next morning, our first stop was on Broadway, the literally colourful music spot of Nashville. Just off Broadway is the iconic Ryman Auditorium – The original and authentic Grand Ole Opry. A self-guided tour takes you throughout the Auditorium. A photo opportunity in front of the stage is included. The music history is great, with many iconic artists having appeared or got their start on this stage. A new display features Elvis Presley’s infamous one appearance at the Grand Ole Opry. The story of “I think you should go back to driving a truck.” is a myth, and the true story is not so damning.
New feature at the Ryman
The Ryman closed during the 1970s and was left derelict until the 1990s when Emmylou Harris and friends put on a concert, that started the revival and renovations of the Ryman Auditorium. Many topline artists are invited to perform at the Ryman since. It is truly authentic.
The Ryman Auditorium
The Original Grand Ole Opry
We were pretty tired from the previous days encounter, so in the evening we explored the lights and music of Broadway.
Broadway from a roof bar
Marlene at rooftop bar
The next day we were booked into RCA Studio B and the Country Music Hall of Fame. Brenda was out Tour Guide for Studio B which has a fantastic music history. Many famous recording artists have recorded here. It is said to be the ‘Home of 1,000 Hits’.
RCA Studio B visit
RCA Studio B visit
The Country Music Hall of Fame takes about three hours to walk through. It is so comprehensive and also fabulous to take in all the information on the development and styles of country music.
The next day first, was a walk over the Shelby Bridge that spans the Cumberland River. We met some wonderful emergency services people, who were putting on a display in the carpark adjacent to the bridge. Marlene even met the Mayor of Nashville.
Marlene meets the Mayor of Nashville – Mayor Thomas Frederick O’Connor
That’s him in the middle
The afternoon was a visit to the Patsy Cline Museum, (above the Johnny Cash Museum in the same building). This too was excellent. One can only wonder how far Patsy would have gone with her career, had she not been killed in that plane crash.
Patsy Cline
That evening we took an Uber ($20 reasonable) out to the new Grand Ole Opry. I was not familiar with any of the acts. This new theatre seems to be more into patting themselves on the back for a history that relates more to the Ryman, recycling acts that are well past their prime, and hoping that maybe they might discover the new sensation. The cringe factor for me was when one of the performers dragged out Tammy Wynette’s “Stand by Your Man”. For me, that song is very dated and possibly out of place in today’s world. The new Grand Ole Opry lacks authenticity. The tickets were nearly $200US each, extremely overpriced for the quality of entertainment.
Stan and Marlene at New Grand Old Opry
Then to get back to the city with an Uber after the show, prices had skyrocketed to $60. I saved $5 by negotiating with a taxi driver to get us back to the city.
Nudie Cohn costume designer
The rest of our stay in Nashville consisted of visits to iconic bars on Broadway (Nudie Cohn’s Honky Tonk – costume designer), a visit to Marathon Motor Museum, and a show at 3rd and Lindsley to see the Western Swing band – The Time Jumpers. Great band.
The Time Jumpers at 3rd and Lindsley
Leaving Nashville
Leaving Nashville was no fun. Firstly, we had to get up very early (2:00am) to catch our flight home. Secondly, the place was starting to get in our blood. And lastly, we were glad to be heading home, but were aware that this great journey was nearly at an end.
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