Australian homes are notoriously cold in winter. Take a tour with an energy assessor to learn how a few tweaks can keep you warm, save money and reduce emissions.
Laine Taylor fell in love with the character of this 1880s miners’ cottage, in the Victorian town of Ballarat, the first moment she saw it.
But she was under no illusions about the downsides of buying an old, cold house, in an old, cold town.
“Being such an old house and in such a cold climate, it’s going to be really important, going forward, to do everything that I can to make it energy efficient.”
She’s part of a growing movement of Australians retrofitting older homes to make them more liveable and reduce emissions in our changing climate.
On the first day of taking ownership of the property, Laine organised for an energy consultant to assess the house to help her make it warmer and more efficient.
She’s enlisted the help of Dale Boucher, an accredited energy assessor based in Ballarat. He’s waging a war on draughts, one house at a time.
“Draughts are the enemy of a house in Ballarat,” he says. “It is really important to seal those draughts.”
Come with Dale as he gives Laine’s new house a once over, or skip ahead to read his best tips and tricks.
The draught detective’s first task is to go through the house analysing its thermal envelope, looking for places where heat is escaping.
To do that, he’ll look inside the ceiling and walls and use a thermal imaging camera around the house.
In this house, leaks aren’t hard to find. We’re looking for the darker purple colours.
“You can see the dark colours of the windows compared to the light colour of the wall. [That shows] the window is the thermal weak point,” Dale explains.
“I can see that there is no wall insulation, there’s no under-floor insulation, there’s limited insulation in the ceiling.
“There are lots of draughts throughout the house, and the glazing and the window coverings are really quite poor.
“This house will need quite a bit of work to really get it to be comfortable in winter, and then also to be comfortable in summer.”
Despite its poor thermal performance, Dale says this house is actually pretty typical of the standard house in Victoria and across Australia.
“Unfortunately, we have so much building stock, which is really low performing,” he says.
“And it’s going to take many, many years to get the existing housing stock up to a decent level.”
But Laine isn’t deterred. “I didn’t really know what to expect,” she says.
“I think I was surprised that there was no insulation in the walls whatsoever. And it’s a bit of a bummer that I can’t get underneath the house.
“But there’s so many other things that I can and will be doing.”
Let’s take a closer look at where the gaps are and what can be done.
Insulation
Insulation can make a huge difference to keeping a house comfortable — regulations over recent decades have put in stricter requirements for the level of insulation in newly built houses.
But older Australian houses typically have poor insulation.
Dale is pleasantly surprised to find adequate insulation in the roof, at the front of the house.
“We’ve got two layers of insulation. The house has got the original wool insulation, it’s a loose blow-in product. This is compacted over time and not really effective,” he says.
“But what the previous householders have done is they put a good cover of fibre polyester batts over the top.”
It needs a little rearranging to ensure there are no gaps, but otherwise looks pretty good.
Dale says even small gaps in ceiling insulation coverage can contribute to a huge loss in performance.
If your house has fairly low-rated ceiling insulation, Dale recommends putting a second layer over the top.
The rest of Laine’s house is a different story.
The ceiling on the back half of the house has poor insulation, the walls have no insulation, and neither does the floor.
“One option is to remove the weatherboards, insulate, put the weatherboards back and then paint,” Dale says.
“You can cut the plaster out, insulate and then get the plasterboard put back up again.
“Or there is one organisation in Victoria that has blow-in insulation for walls and they can retrofit wall insulation in old houses.”
Because Laine’s house is set so close to the ground, there’s no way of getting underneath — which means floor insulation will be difficult to remedy.
Windows
For Laine, that means working on her windows will be all the more important.
Windows are a huge source of heat loss, with most Australian houses only having single glazing.
Dale suggests retrofitting windows with double glazing, but because of its exxy price tag, it’s not his highest recommendation.
Instead, he tells his clients, including Laine, that they should invest in good-quality blinds.
“The best type of window covering today is a blind called the honeycomb blind … or they’re also called cellular blinds,” Dale says.
“The best thing about them is they’re double layered, and they trap a layer of air there inside the blind.”
Laine’s house has plenty of large windows, letting in the freezing cold.
“You can see with these windows in the kitchen, that there is no window covering whatsoever,” Dale tells Laine.
“And so the heat loss coming out of these windows is going to be really high.”
If you’re renting or can’t afford those options, there are some cheaper, less permanent hacks to keep windows warm — like bubble wrap.
“Bubble wrap on windows can really turn poor-performing windows into double glazing,” Dale says.
“So there are simple things, even buying some second-hand window coverings or curtains can make a really, really big difference to heat loss through windows.”
And sealing up draughts is something everyone can do, for very little cost or effort.
Draughts
While the thermal imaging camera is a high-tech method of finding leaks, Dale says another way is to use incense sticks.
“That will actually show in really draughty weather, whether you have draughts around the external doors and gaps in windows and wall vents,” he says.
“So that can be another really simple thing that households can use.”
“Seal up gaps in external doors or vents, and gaps around window architraves. That can be done quite cheaply.”
Dale recommends focusing on areas around window architraves, external doors, vents, kitchen cupboards, exhaust fans and chimneys.
Chimneys are another source of draughts that can be sealed up either permanently or temporarily.
“We can see that this fireplace is actually open and open fireplaces are a really large point of heat loss,” Dale says.
“Because an open fireplace is designed to draw heat, it’s going to be sucking warmth out of your house and then out through the chimney.
“There are draught-proofing products such as a big piece of sponge foam that you can fit under here.”
Heating and cooling
After Dale has mapped the thermal envelope of the house, he turns his attention to heating and cooling.
“In this room, we’ve got a reverse-cycle air conditioner and we’ve also got a gas heater,” Dale explains.
“Previously in Victoria, gas was a very cheap way of heating. But now, reverse cycle air conditioning [can do that job for a third of the cost] compared to gas.
“So I’d be encouraging you to be using the reverse cycle air conditioner for heating and not using the gas.”
The Victorian government also provides rebates to home owners to replace gas heaters with electric, which means Laine can replace the old gas heater with a second heat pump and put it in another part of the house.
Dale recommends multiple split-system air conditioners, rather than ducted heating.
“It will be very, very cheap to operate really, 20 to 30 cents an hour, so they’re very efficient and that would be a much cheaper option than going with something like ducted heating,” he says.
Another cheap and easy way for renters and owners to cut down on heating bills is to clean air conditioner filters.
“Sometimes they get really, really clogged, and then it dramatically reduces the heat output of the air conditioner,” Dale says.
“What you need to do is take these filters out probably three or four times a year, and take them to the laundry and just give them a really good wash and clean and get all that dirt off.”
Hot water
Next up Dale turns his attention to the bathroom. He’s not impressed with the charming rustic features that Laine fell in love with.
“We’ve got a really old showerhead there and we’ll measure how much water that showerhead uses, but I’m guessing it’s going to be a really, really big water use,” he says.
“Now that can be bad because you’re going to use a lot more energy, heating water.”
Outside is a gas hot water system, which Dale recommends eventually replacing with a heat pump hot water system.
“The cheapest form of heating [water] now is a heat pump hot water system and there are potentially three rebates you can get,” he says.
“They start fairly cheaply, and then they get high end.
“That’s something that you could maybe in the next couple of years look to change that gas system over to add a heat pump.”
But he also finds something a little easier to fix.
“The hot water pipes aren’t insulated,” Dale says.
“You’re going to be losing a large amount of energy by having these uninsulated pipes.
“You can actually save about $150 a year by insulating the hot water pipes.”
Hot water system insulation can be bought from your local hardware store and installation is a DIY job, according to Dale.
Going electric
If Laine wants to convert her gas heating and hot water system, adding more electric appliances will require extra space on the switchboard.
“If we put another two air conditioners in, they will need two circuit breakers. And an induction cooktop needs a circuit breaker,” Dale says.
“A solar photovoltaic (PV) system can have one to three circuit breakers. Batteries need circuit breakers.”
But here Dale has some good news for Laine.
“You are lucky in that you do have a lot of space to put more circuit breakers in and you won’t need to upgrade your switchboard,” he says.
“That’s because for some houses they have to spend $3,000 upgrading the switchboard.”
Back in the kitchen, the news isn’t so good.
Laine’s house has a gas cooktop and gas oven, without a range hood.
“I’d be a little concerned about that because you’re combusting gas inside the house and as you’re burning, several different sorts of chemicals are being released into this room,” Dale explains.
“That could be another consideration for going to something like an induction cooktop.”
Replacing an oven and stove can get expensive and is not necessarily an option for renters, but there are workarounds.
“Some people have an air fryer for an oven, and a portable induction cooktop,” Dale says.
For those with a gas cooktop and an electric oven, it’s also possible to take the cooktop off, and retrofit it with an induction stove on top, rather than replacing the whole thing.
Once all the fossil gas appliances have been replaced with electric ones, you can disconnect the gas altogether.
Gas companies charge a daily supply charge, so this can save hundreds of dollars a year.
There are a couple of options here: one is to permanently disconnect the gas by arranging to have the pipes and meter removed. Some companies charge customers huge fees for this service, sometimes over $1,000.
A cheaper option is to cap the connection — meaning the infrastructure stays in place, but you no longer have to pay daily supply fees. It allows the next occupant the option to reconnect the gas in future.
But the Australian Energy Regulator (AER) is concerned about the long-term safety impacts of capping, with gas still in the pipes.
The Victorian government recently introduced a cap on permanent disconnection fees, at $220 — a move the AER has supported as an “interim measure”. Other states are yet to follow suit, but in NSW it’s currently under review.
Solar panels
Then there’s the measure that’s most frequently associated with energy-efficient homes: solar panels.
That’s going to be a little more complicated for Laine because her house has a heritage overlay.
It will need to be approved by the local council, but should be OK as long as they can’t be seen from the street, according to Dale.
Installing solar panels will allow Laine to offset heating and use of other appliances during the day, when the sun is shining.
Warmer houses for a cooler planet
While lots of people are retrofitting to save money and be more comfortable, for Laine the climate impact is her main motivation.
“The most important thing about having my home energy efficient for me is just reducing my carbon emissions,” she says.
“I’ve always wanted to have the smallest footprint possible. And now that I have my own house, I feel like I can make a bigger impact.”
For most of Dale’s clients, it’s about keeping warm, but climate change is a big factor for him as well.
“Personally, I’m really passionate about climate change. And I really get a great deal of satisfaction out of helping households lower their footprints by reducing their greenhouse gas emissions, by generating renewable energy on their roof,” he says.
Whatever people’s motivations, there are big pay-offs for reducing the climate impact of our housing.
Residential buildings in Australia account for nearly a quarter of overall electricity use and more than 10 per cent of carbon emissions, and despite that, they do a far worse job than houses in colder countries at keeping us warm.
The World Health Organization recommends houses be kept at a minimum temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, but the Australian energy home rating assumes houses are heated to just 15C overnight.
RMIT’s Nicola Willand, an architect whose research focuses on energy, health and equity in housing, says the Australian culture of putting up with cold indoor temperatures is slowly changing.
“We sort of cope with cold indoor temperatures, but just the cold air itself can exacerbate respiratory symptoms and increase the risk of mould and the spread of infection,” she says.
“I think the change in attitude amongst the public is coming.”
Nicola believes addressing poor energy efficiency in homes can solve lots of problems at once.
“Importantly, insulation of homes — especially in a heating-dominated climate, as we’ve got in Victoria or Tasmania — reduces energy demand,” she says.
“With reducing energy demand, comes reduced carbon emissions.”
Dale’s top tips for upgrading your home
- Insulation: Check your home and fill in the gaps. Retrofitting existing homes with under-floor and ceiling insulation may require a professional. An electrician can help inspect wall cavities by unscrewing an external power point. Replace old halogen or LED downlights with IC-4s, which are manufactured to allow bulk insulation to be placed over the top.
- Windows: Good blinds go a long way — opt for honeycomb or cellular blinds if you can. Any window covering is better than none! Double glazing is a good option if you own and can afford it, otherwise covering windows with bubble wrap is a cheap renter-friendly hack.
- Draught-proofing: Hire a thermal imaging camera or use incense sticks to see where warm air is escaping from your home. Check around window and door architraves, external doors, vents, kitchen cupboards, exhaust fans and chimneys. Seal up the gaps!
- Heating and cooling: Reverse cycle air conditioning is the cheapest form of building heating. Clean filters three or four times a year for optimal performance. Multiple split systems are cheaper than ducted heating. Create zones in your house and only heat or cool where you need.
- Hot water: Heat pump hot water systems are energy efficient and can be optimised by heating water during the day when ambient temperature is warmest. Depending on your state, there may be rebates available to switch. Insulating hot water pipes and switching to efficient showerheads can also help.
- Going electric: If you can switch from gas to electric cooking, do it — again, rebates may be available. If you do switch to electric, check with your gas supplier whether you can cap the service to reduce bills.
- Solar panels: All-electric homes can run on solar photovoltaic (PV) systems. The bigger the better — aim to place panels in multiple directions and program appliances to operate in daylight hours. Improving a home’s overall efficiency should be the first priority.
Nicola adds that mandatory disclosure of a home’s energy efficiency could also help people be better informed — the ACT is the only place that requires an energy rating at the point of sale or rent.
“It gives the buyer or renter some kind of information about the energy efficiency of the home,” Nicola says.
“You go into a home, you can’t see insulation, it’s hidden. Real estate agents don’t know, very often even the seller doesn’t know if there is insulation.”
The Victorian government is planning on introducing new minimum energy efficiency standards for rental properties, which Nicola says is a welcome move.
“Renters are more likely to be in energy poverty — in financial energy stress, or experiencing health problems because of cold or overheated homes — than owner-occupiers,” she says.
“[So we need to] focus on that group of people who don’t have agency to do anything about the homes.”
Having agency is one of the driving factors for Laine, and she believes in the power of change, through word of mouth.
“If we invite friends over and I explain what I’ve done, and they see how we’re thriving and reducing our emissions, then they might think, ‘Oh, I might try that,'” she says.
“Even though I’m only one person, I feel like it can make a big impact, if everyone just does something small in their power.”
Credits:
- Reporting/photography: Jess Davis
- Production: Lucy Sweeney
- Illustrations: Alex Lim
- Editing: Tim Leslie and Edwina Farley
- Additional photography: Patrick Stone