Where would you find a hint of Amish, Wim Wenders in the ’90s, Pina Bausch and beading inspired by orthopedic car seats favored by Parisian taxi drivers blended together?
In the Lemaire lineup, of course.
Design duo Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran are forever mixing the cinematic and the everyday. But this season, they wanted “more straightforward silhouettes and things that you can refer to instantaneously,” she said backstage.
In a season of classics, they reached for their own, layering tailored workwear-grade twill and denim pieces, relaxed coats and boxy wide-collared shirts. Balloon and parachute volumes made sleeves and trousers ample in a way that telegraphed nonchalance and warm-weather breeziness.
But a more overt sensuality emerged from the lineup, helped along by leaner feminine silhouettes, second-skin knits and the occasional bout of tasteful skin baring. There was even the occasional garter detail.
In addition to their favored color palette of blacks, shades of gray and toasted browns, the work of Paris-based visual artist Philippe Weisbecker, whose focus on everyday objects caught the eye of the duo, appeared as prints. It also informed the palette of sun-faded, dusty pastels that ended the show.
There was plenty to look at, particularly in details of collars and folded-over lengths, a task helped along by models who strolled by on the circular raised catwalk, pausing, glancing back and even occasionally giving a little twirl. Though set in the Lemaire headquarters on Place des Vosges, the show lost nothing of its believable on-the-street charm.
“It’s all about waking up in the morning, having different things in mind. You don’t have so much time and you need good friends in your wardrobe — accomplices — that will make you feel confident,” said Lemaire. “This is fundamentally what we are interested in: bringing solutions to people for everyday life.”