Tears fell from Martine Rose‘s eyes as soon as her inaugural runway at Milan Fashion Week concluded. Models, stylists, and hairdressers chanted in celebration, embracing the success of her first showcase on Italian territory. Spring/Summer 2025 saw the UK designer level up her signature oversized silhouettes, complete with an unexpected Nike TN collaboration.
The venue, conveniently located minutes away from Fondazione Prada, was littered with branded posters swept across the floor. Discarded fabrics and towels hung from the walls with a dismantled feel, igniting the runway with booming tunes taken from late-night London raves. “The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is dedicated to expressions of beauty spawned from the likes of disturbance, humor, and sex,” the show notes read.
The British designer questioned conventional beauty standards with enlarged prosthetic noses and knotted hip-length wigs. Seeing Martine Rose at her best, SS25 was spearheaded by strong sportswear, printed tops, and cascading satins, ushering models down the upcycled runway in structural garments that are both fragile and powerful.
Strong-shouldered tailoring and latex trousers were tied together by ROSE-branded buckles and “LOCAL HERO” caps, followed by leather-strapped bottoms and slumping bunny neckties. Splotched patterns overwhelmed three-piece masculine suits with a scientific edge, accompanied by paneled polos with minimalistic chest embroidery. Crinkled leather outerwear was matched with deconstructed baseball tops strung together by crossed rope, while brawny winter jackets donned multiple pockets for easy access on the go. Hefty workwear jackets and stripped football shirts guided the collection down multifaceted paths, observed by printed denim, two-piece tracksuits, and the designer’s next Clarks collection. A single pair of Nike TNs walked the runway, hinting at Martine Rose’s next swoosh collab with doubled tongues and shiny mudguards.
Take a closer look at Martine Rose’s SS25 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned for more Milan Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.