As well as the usual big-hitters at the menswear shows of Paris Fashion Week, there were some unexpected moments from emerging and avant-garde brands.
Here are a few highlights:
A$AP-style
A$AP Rocky, rapper and partner of Rihanna, launched a surprise with his first-ever clothing collection on Friday. The gangster vibes were strong, with models in balaclavas, cakes with sugar like lines of cocaine and luxury cars parked in the courtyard of a private hotel. The rap elite were present, including Colombian icon Maluma, while Rihanna emerged in an evening dress and leather coat.
The clothes themselves combined baggy, XXL street wear plastered with the brand name American Sabotage AWGE. The line may help with his legal fees — he is currently facing prosecution for allegedly shooting his former friend Terell Ephron.
Rick Owens blockbuster
Rick Owens, the master showman of avant-garde art-fashion, excelled himself with his latest show, a homage to golden-era Hollywood historical epics at the Palais de Tokyo.
Instead of single-file, the models emerged in massed ranks, looking like a cross between fascist platoons, Ancient Roman processions and “Dune”-style otherworldly monks in their white gowns and hoods or pharaonic headdresses. “It was a display of Rick’s incredible talent and showmanship, creating a fashion moment that won’t soon be forgotten,” said Harrods buyer Simon Longland.
Beirenbonkers
Even by his own whacky standards, Walter Van Beirendonck pushed the limits of taste, with outfits that looked like pompom-laden devil clowns. Idol for a generation of the LGBT “bear” scene, the Belgian veteran created oversized neon costumes, with smiley faces on hats and buttocks, little cardboard birthday hats, and twisted Joker-style smiles. Not safe for work.
Friot’s loud love
One new name creating buzz in France is young designer Jeanne Friot. In a collection sponsored by Tinder, she stripped down gender codes with risque fishnet-dresses and fun innovations like a dress made entirely of belts, or another of tiny love-locks. One model came out with the words “Love Louder” painted on his bare chest.
Backstage, the politically committed designer herself wore a T-shirt reading: “Why be racist, sexist, homophobic, transphobic when you could just be quiet?”