Monday, November 4, 2024

Polka dots, flying pigs and pockets: How to launch a fashion label

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“I am hoping that by the third collection I can break even.”

Swinging sixties

Chelsea Street Designs is a new Australian label drawing inspiration from London’s swinging sixties.

Former legal support professional Amber Lochhead is giving herself 18 months to see if customers are ready to step off the trend hamster wheel and embrace Chelsea Street Designs, a collection of sixties-style tunic dresses.

“It’s been in the works for years and years, so launching now is just bad luck,” Lochhead says. “It’s not something I’m going to get down about. I firmly believe in these dresses.”

“I love fashion and wanted to create something easy to wear, that feels luxurious and of course has pockets.”

There is a palpable passion for fashion from Lochhead and Branagan but taking a fiercely independent approach to launching labels, without investors or support from major stockists, is challenging.

“No one wants to share information in fashion,” Lochhead says. “I was determined to make things in Australia, but people won’t tell you who their manufacturers or pattern cutters are. It’s like a vault.

“Competition is fierce.”

Securing support from fashion magazines or social media influencers is another challenging hurdle, especially with limited samples and a tiny marketing budget. That’s when bright polka dots and a sixties silhouette can help.

Stand out success

Gary Bigeni has been focusing on inclusivity since shifting his business model to made-to-order pieces two years ago.

Gary Bigeni has been focusing on inclusivity since shifting his business model to made-to-order pieces two years ago.Credit: Kate Geraghty

Polka dots are familiar territory for designer Gary Bigeni, who transitioned from producing subdued and sophisticated traditional ranges to bold, gender-inclusive collections representing his colourful personality and values following a cancer diagnosis in 2017.

The personal approach is paying off, with his latest collection returning from New York, Milan and Paris showings.

“It does take time to get a foothold in the market,” Bigeni says. “Bolder pieces are harder to get across the line with some stores but in overseas showrooms, the buyers are drawn to pieces that stand out.

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“The best thing you can do when starting out is to be known for doing one thing well. Find your uniqueness and build your business on that. Too many people spread themselves thinly and disappear.”

For Branagan, the “sew it and they will come” philosophy adds to the hope fuelling her enterprise.

“I’m taking a risk for the people willing to risk wearing it,” she says. “This is a time for risk-takers.”

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