Reflections of New Orleans: Part 1
Col in front of Jackson Square 2019
It is five years since I last visited New Orleans so it was great to be back once again for JazzFest especially with the fantastic line up for this year’s festival.
Some things have changed while others remain much the same.
As with my previous visits my time is spent predominantly in the French Quarter district, the oldest neighbour of the city of New Orleans covering an area of approximately 1.7 square kilometres, and the immediate surrounding area covering the site of the original settlement, hence my following comments are related to this particular area rather than New Orleans as a whole. To many, particularly visitors, The Quarter is the heart and soul of New Orleans, the music and cultural capital of Louisiana if not America, and one of the great music cities of the world.
Busking on Royal
New Orleans is still the same old dirty, smelly, grungy but vibrant place full of life and colour, sadness and happiness but a place that remains firmly entrencehed in one’s mind, full of contrasts and at the same time, contradictions. Excitement is always in the air.
Poverty is still extremely prolific particularly the number of homeless people sleeping rough on the streets, and unfortunately is unavoidable and very noticeable. To my eye there are two types of homeless: one, those who are geniuinely homeless, and two, the panhandlers – in other words those trying to make a buck out of their sorry position to feed their addictions, and to take advantage of the many tourists who fill the streets at all times of day. The geniuine homeless person typically accepts donations without actually begging for them whilst the panhandlers actively, and often aggressively, seek donations often right in your face doing so.
There is no denying the geniuine homeless person. Many you see are stationed in a semi-permanent position they maintain everyday with whatever meagre possesions they have, and usually, they are alone. This is their home and they make do the best they can. Usually pieces of cardboard for a mattress and protection from the elements is laid out on footpaths, doorways or spot they claim without being moved on. Detrius scavenged from the streets is utilised to somehow make their situation more comfortable for themselves – if one can call it that. They wear the same clothing day in and day out, dirty, torn, and often ill fitting, their hands and faces deeply engrained with dirt and grime – emphasising how long since they last washed or showered. Their sad, dark pleading eyes stare at passerbys hoping for a handout of money or food for which they rarely ask for. They silently sit and wait in hope, if you can call it that. They have lost all their dignity, and accept their position in life without question. Life has dealt them a harsh blow and they rely on the generosity of passerbys in order to survive. Most have no future and some are sadly waiting to die. Nothing appears to be done for them by the authorities. In this so called land of the rich and the free they are left to rot on the scrapheap of failure. Very sad indeed.
The addicts – drug and alcohol, form the secondary group of homeless. They are more aggressive and desperate in their approach to obtain money for their next hit or bottle and tend to operate in small groups. They also are extremely unkempt. Mobility is important in their search for alms as they seek out the many bars in the Quarter where greater numbers, especially tourists, congregate. From my experince it is best not to interact with them – they are angry and we are to blame for their position in life. Again, very sad.
Footpaths are still a major issue in the Quarter and elsewhere. Many remain in desperate disrepair after the floods and Hurricane Katrina. The lack of maintenance by local government has not helped either. At times it is very precarious to walk upon these walkways as members of the our group, past and present, can attest to after serious falls. The local authorities do not accept public liability so if you fall and injure yourself that is bad luck and you bear any consequent medical costs yourself. It is difficult to walk many of the streets in The Quarter and surrounding areas without continually looking down.
Our favourite coffee shop – The Twelfth Night on Ramparts
Another bugbear is the lack of a decent cup of coffee. Americans do not appreciate a good Italian coffee as we do in Australia. Their coffee is insipid, weak, and frankfully bloody terrible! However all was not lost. The Twelfth Night on North Ramparts, a short walk from our hotel, was the go to place for a morning coffee. For me it was where I had my daily breakfast of a cafe lait and pastry while usually sitting at the bench in the front window watching the world go by or sending emails, photos etc home unless joined by other members from our group.
Chicken Vincent with a side of pasta from Adolfo’s on Frenchman
Gumbo
Very nice, but could not eat it all!
Stan with a huge serve of meat!
Food in Louisana involves the serving up of generally rather large meals with plenty of meat, more often than not chicken usually fried, and with very few vegetables to accompany the meal, if any. Even if you order vegetables as a side dish to your meal, the portions are very small and consist of only one or two different vegetables. It is not hard to understand why there is an obesity issue in America. However the food most of the time was good and I was thankful I did a lot of walking during my time there to burn off the excess calories. I ate gumbo, a New Orleans/Creole speciality, a number of times which thankfully you can order in two different sizes and I always found it tasty and very filling. Fried chicken is very popular but there is only so much fried chicken you can eat!
Tipping is one on the biggest ‘pains in the backside’ in America for travellers and in New Orleans it proved to be no different. Workers in America are paid a pittance, there is no basic wage as we know and appreciate in Australia, if workers are expected to enjoy any semblance of a living wage then they must rely on the good nature and tips from their customers to acquire that extra income pivotal to their needs. Hotel staff and waiters are obviously very poorly paid. Asking a hotel porter directions to a street etc the hand immediately is proffered for the expected tip! For every type of service provided a tip is automatically expected.
Advertised prices of goods and services in America are a net price. On payment, on top of the advertised price is added the tax payable on the item, usually a state tax but sometimes a national tax or even a local tax so more often than not you pay more than one tax. Then you are given the option of the amount you wish to tip, usually three options between 10% to 22%. A meal that is advertised at $20 you often end up paying nearly double that to around $40.00.
Like many places, America is also becoming a more cashless society. When you pay for your goods and services the card is taken from you and tapped by the worker, usually away from the counter, and returned to you after approval whereas in Australia the card remains under your control at all times. Our group did not like this process as the card is out of your hands, often out of sight, and can be open to improper use by unscrupulous operators.
In a matter of moments rain can bucket down!
Blue skies, and hot!
The weather during my time in New Orleans in April and May generally was hot and humid with the occassional downpour. Temperatures ranged from a low overnight around the mid 20sC and a daily top in low to mid 30sC. When it rains in New Orleans it is usually heavy, often with a thunderstorm lasting for perhaps thirty minutes to an hour or so before clearing. This year we only had the one major down pour while we were there. If it rains during Jazzfest it is guaranteed that major sections of the arena will become flooded and boggy. Brian Wise the organiser of our group always advises to be prepared to forgo a pair shoes due to the ground conditions if the forecast is for rain. In other words don’t wear good shoes. I carried an old pair of ‘crocs’ in my bag to swap over if conditions became drastic. But New Orleans is basically shorts and t/shirt.
One issue for me was going from the outside heat to the chilling cold of the airconditioning inside, one moment you are frazzled, the next freezing, no in between!
Ramparts street car
St Charles Street car
One of the great attractions in New Orleans is of course the fabulous and historic street cars, or trolleys. There are currently 5 streetcar routes: the Riverfront; St. Charles; Canal (Cemeteries); Canal (City Park/Museum); and Rampart/St. Claude lines. Although not extensive these lines provide a laid back means for sightseeing different parts of New Orleans and the many attractions on offer there. Canal takes you as far as the Museum/Art Gallery and the Sculpture Park, unfortunately the day I went out there the Art Gallery was closed so after helping the driver reverse the seats hopped back on and returned to The Quarter. The Charles Street line takes you through some of the more prosperous areas of New Orleans. Magnificent homes set in lush and green gardens and settings provide an alternative view of New Orleans, not too much poverty, begging or panhandling to be seen here. The street car fares are still the same as they were when I first visited in 2014: any trip is $1.20 or 40c for seniors but you must have correct money. Thankfully there are a range of various discount tickets you can buy via website and apps.
Paddle steamer and the mighty Mississippi
Part 2 of my reflection on New Orleans continues shortly.
Wikipedia provides a good overview of The French Quarter Here.
More from Col Ritchie can be read Here
Read more stories from Almanac Music HERE
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About Colin Ritchie
Retired teacher who enjoys following the Bombers, listening to music especially Bob Dylan, reading, and swimming.
