Chitose Abe is cracking the books — and packing them, too.
Inspired by the James Dean quote “The prime reason … for living in this world is discovery,” she studied her history and set out to find fresh sartorial techniques. She also took inspiration from Dean’s Fifties-era collegiate style, sending out models with little stacks of books and a spirit of youthful rebellion.
Abe loves hybrid clothing and her studies gave her new ideas. Instead of collaborating with other brands, artists, or illustrators, as she’s done in the past, she decided to experiment with new ideas, fusing hard and soft fabrics; slicing up garments and patching them back together in unusual ways, and borrowing bits and pieces from past centuries for her contemporary silhouettes.
Little black dresses were modeled on 18th century frock coats, with long rippling panels at the back, while the lineup of jackets — and minidresses — that opened the show had large, crinkled pouf sleeves worthy of Renaissance nobles.
The collection was a study in other contrasts, too. Tops made partly from neoprene or stiff, dark denim came with silky, floaty panels at the back; a double-breasted jacket had tailored shorts tacked onto the bottom, and pair of tailored trousers morphed into a long, sheer skirt.
Those silhouettes “may seem simple, but they’re actually complicated” to pull off, said Abe, referring to her sartorial sleight of hand. Dressed in a black t-shirt with a photo of Dean by Dennis Stock, Abe said that while she has been designing for a long time, she’s perpetually on a quest for “newness” and has long been inspired by the late actor’s approach to life.
The collegiate looks were more straightforward — but just as desirable. They included varsity-style jackets with busy prints of cars or bright flowers and wide-leg chinos worn with slouchy, flecked cardigans or Fair Isle sweaters — and a touch of adolescent angst.
Striped, knit dresses with pouf sleeves and flippy skirts were sporty, fun and fit for a last-minute dash to the library in a search for knowledge, or a book of Stock’s moody black-and-white photographs of the young rebel, Dean.