Inspired by Mei Lanfang, the male opera artist best known as the “Queen of Peking Opera” for his portrayal of female characters, Sean Suen explored the notion of gender as well as Western and Chinese sartorial archetypes through loose, flowing silhouettes.
The designer married the tailored formalwear and suits that Lanfang favored in his personal life, and the attire used in his portrayal of ancient noble ladies, in a palette of cream, pearl gray and black. Occasional bolts of saffron yellow, cinnabar red and greens evoked the look of the opera costumes.
Suen’s lineup hinted at broader questions on how modern ideals of masculinity and virility were driven by Western aesthetic and sartorial codes.
His knack for precise, yet relaxed, tailoring shone through in a slimline dinner jacket fused with a mandarin style. Tailored trousers were finished with silk cuffs, giving them a nonchalant air.
Layered, extra-long jackets and shirt sleeves telegraphed a youthful nonchalance while coats came equipped with long panels thrown over the shoulders like shawls.
He used ties as sashes or fringing tumbling over suit trousers. He even grouped a dozen of them to create a plastron finished with tassles. Meanwhile, strands of pearls, used as closures or accessories, added a charming touch and felt in step with the growing appetite for the gemstone in men’s jewelry.
Backstage, the Beijing-based designer had pictures of the artist up on the wall, both on and off stage. “You can see how handsome he was and it wasn’t about him being masculine or feminine, it was everything mixed together,” he said.